Last June, I found myself spinning my wheels through the Italian Alps surrounding Bormio. A tip-off had led me to a gem: Hotel La Genzianella. Their website and Instagram had already painted a vivid picture. This hotel exudes charm with a special nod to cyclists evident from their impressive bike storage. But, as any cyclist will attest, the actual experience determines the true value of your stay, right? Well, here, the allure wasn't just setting off for epic rides; it also was the warm, luxurious embrace upon returning. I really loved my stay, and I'm genuinely eager to share my experiences with you in detail.

So, read on to learn all about this family-run hotel, where comfort, exquisite dining, and culture blend seamlessly .

Cyclist getting ready to ride the Stelvio from the charming lobby of Hotel La Genzianella

the full context

To set the scene, first, let me introduce my travel companions. I went to La Genzianella accompanied by my wife, where we'd planned a little reunion with my Tuscan friend, Alessandro, and his girl.

I first crossed paths with Alessandro on Instagram, connecting over cycling and photography. Over time, our virtual friendship transitioned into a real-world one, especially when he lived and worked in the Netherlands for a while. Alessandro has since returned to his Tuscan roots, a place I had the pleasure of visiting two years ago. And as fate would have it, our significant others bonded as seamlessly as we did. After a summer visit from them to our Dutch place, we collectively decided that Bormio and La Genzianella would be our perfect halfway rendezvous.

With the majestic Italian Alps as our backdrop, Alessandro and I frequently went riding, while our girls found their own joys within the hotel's comforts. But when our wheels were stilled, the four of us cherished every shared moment, proving that great company amplifies this great location.

discovering la genzianella

Nestled in the heart of picturesque Bormio, Hotel La Genzianella stands for genuine Italian hospitality. This family-run hotel masterfully blends traditional charm with modern comforts. The Andreola family, with their warm nature, ensured we felt more like cherished guest than mere travelers. While its location makes La Genzianella the ideal base for both winter skiing and summer cycling, it's the immersive experience I had that truly sets it apart.

From the moment I arrived, I’ve been treated to an ambience of luxury and comfort. The warm welcome by owner Federica, combined with the rich aroma of wood, heralded the beginning of a great stay. Step into their spacious lobby, and you're transported to the idyllic world of mountain retreats where calming fragrances dance with rustic scents, creating an atmosphere of relaxation and elegance. This design ethos extends seamlessly from the grand restaurant on the ground floor to the cozy breakfast nook below.

And, as I guide you through all the facets of this hotel, we'll explore my room, the bike storage, the spa and gym, and of course, the culinary delights that punctuated my stay.

about the rooms

Going through their website, I quickly realized that the variety of rooms on offer was nothing short of impressive. From spacious suites with panoramic windows to rooms with hammam showers, the choices seemed endless. The two double rooms we eventually picked, were entirely clad in Cirmolo wood. And waking up each morning and stepping out onto the balcony, the mountain views were just spectacular.

Inside the room, I appreciated the attention to detail. From a safe to keep our valuables secure, the free WiFi that kept us connected, and a great big bed for those moments when we just wanted to wind down and sleep — everything felt well-thought-out. But beyond the amenities, it was the calming hues of the design and the natural aroma of the Cirmolo wood that truly made the room feel like a cozy retreat. And if there's one thing I looked forward to every morning, besides the mountain views, it was the delectable breakfast that came with our booking.

about the bike storage and workshop area

During my visit, one feature that stood out was the bike storage here. Spacious and meticulously planned, it wasn’t just a place to keep your bike safe, but also a true workshop.

Need to charge your gear overnight? They've got power points next to your bike for that. Have a little bike DIY in mind? Almost every tool you'd find in a professional workshop awaits you. They thought of every cyclist's need, ensuring we didn’t have to lug around our own tools.

Before setting out on a ride, I'd use their Parktool compressor to ensure my tires were ready. And when my bike needed a little wash? The maintenance stands and water hose came in particularly handy for cleaning.

about The Wellness Retreats

Let me share another aspect of La Genzianella that truly took my stay to a whole new level: their wellness center. They claim it's a place for intense well-being and relaxation, and trust me, that’s not just marketing talk!

First off, the sauna, reminiscent of age-old alpine dwellings, is constructed entirely from Swiss pine wood.
Then there's the steam bath, adorned with serpentine benches sourced directly from the Malenco Valley. And it’s not just about the steam; the color therapy and aromatic scents add layers to the relaxation experience.
Picture this: lounging in heated Robinia wood vats, the gentle sounds of a crackling fire in the background, creating an ambiance that's both rustic and luxurious.
The expansive relaxation area was my personal favorite. Here, it's easy to find a tranquil corner, the calming music and forest fragrances whisking you away from daily stresses while reading a book.
For my daily morning yoga routine, this gym is very thoughtfully equipped. You can stretch, practice with the provided mats, bands, and whatever have you.
Lastly, a special mention to Mari. In her expert hands at one of the two beauty cabins, we indulged in therapeutic massages and treatments tailored to our preferences. Just wow!

about the Breakfasts and Dinners

Every morning in La Genzianella began with the irresistible aroma of fresh coffee and warm bread. From 7:30, a spread of coffees, breads, pastries, cheeses, and local cured meats awaited. A special nod to the Venetian treats from the local bakery. My favorite combo? The Valtellina rye bread with homemade jams.

At night, the dinners were truly amazing. Beyond that! Traditional dishes, infused with Mediterranean inspirations, showcased the chefs' flair for balancing the old and new. Whether it was the chef’s game selections, or cheeses from the alpine pastures, every meal was an experience on its own. And these dinders always concluded with delectably unforgettable mini desserts.

Truly, the culinary experience here is an unforgettable one for sure.

about the riding

You might be thinking, with all these lavish amenities and experiences at La Genzianella, where does cycling fit in? Well, despite all the luxuries, it were the roads that drew me to Bormio in the first place. And yes I did quite some nice rides, so, let's get to the meat of it!

Bormio is nothing short of a cyclist's dream. The roads around are all beautiful and iconic climbs: the legendary Stelvio and Gavia passes, the gruelling Mortirolo, but let’s start with the somewhat hidden but scenic climb to Laghi di Cancano.

Passo Torri di Fraele - 40 km / 1.000 hm

For those days when you're craving a ride that's intense but doesn't take the entire day, the route up to Laghi di Cancano is a treasure I'd wholeheartedly suggest. Venturing up the Passo Torri di Fraele feels more like a gentle climb compared to all the big ones. While enjoying riding up the countless switchbacks, it's impossible not to draw parallels with the fame of Stelvio. Yet, this path has a charm distinctly its own. And it’s quiet! I’ve only seen some cyclists!

The summit is marked by two ancient castle towers, painting pictures of history. And just when you think you made it to the top, I highly recommend you contiuning on a slightly challenging gravel stretch to reach the peaceful embrace of the Cancano lake.

It's a fairly short climb, but it’s a potent reminder that sometimes, Bormio's less-heralded climbs can be incredibly nice as well.

forcola and foscagno - 125 km / 2.800 hm

To me, there's something magical about riding loops. Finishing right where you started, but without crossing roads and by preference as round as you can do. This loop I went on over the Passo Forcola and the Passo del Foscagno was one like that. From the outset, the first 40 kilometers were almost a free-wheeling downhill to Tirano.

That long descent is juxtaposed when you pivot northwards into the Val Poschiavo. This stunning Swiss valley reaches up to the Bernina Pass at 2,328 meters. Climbing up the Passo Forcola offers a teasing start. A gentle cruise by the lake, a mild descent, and a brief dalliance with a train track where a quaint train chugs alongside. The gentle inclines, however, give way to steeper and more consistent gradients. You're accompanied by excellent tarmac, which makes the climb relatively comfortable. But there are moments, especially before Motta, where the road takes a sharp incline, challenging your grit. As you push on, the Livigno Valley offers a respite, welcoming you with charm. I couldn't resist a short break here to refuel.

The subsequent climb, right after crossing the Spöl river, presented a series of hairpins. The panoramic views from these bends were spectacular. At some point a mountain bike trail darted below the road, and as I pedaled further up, I reached the top with a somewhat curious customs checkpoint. The descent back to La Genzianella was a sweet finish, winding through nature's marvels and some nice smooth switchbacks.

mortirolo and gavia - 110 km / 3.200 hm

If I were to sum up the quintessential Bormio cycling experience, it would be this ultimate blend of raw intensity and breathtaking serenity. Absorb the scenery that becomes increasingly nice with every turn, especially on the 20-kilometer stretch of the Gavia. Sure, the Mortirolo might make you question your life choices with its grueling 12-kilometer inclines, but believe me, it's worth the sweat.

This ride also takes off with a smooth 30-kilometer descent through the Valtellina valley towards Mazzo di Valtellina. Here, I’d advise maintaining some rhythm and push a bit, because once you make that left turn, you're in for perhaps the toughest climb you’ve ever done in your life. The Mortirolo is brutal, rising from 500 meters above sea level to a staggering 1852 meters in just over 12 kilometers. We're talking average inclines of over 15%, with some segments teasing you with a near-vertical 20% grade. As you navigate your way up, look out for the bit haunting yet intriguing copper statue of Pantani nestled amidst the curves. The relentless gradient eases somewhat after that, but it remains tough until you crest the peak.

The descent towards Monno is fast and leads you to the main road to Ponte di Legno. While these 15-kilometers might seem somewhat boring, it's the calm before you get to the Gavia. The Gavia, though perhaps overshadowed by the fame of the Stelvio, offers an unparalleled experience. It’s a climb of dramatic twists and turns, starting amidst sheltering trees before breaking free into the vast openness of alpine meadows. The final stretch, marked by bends and turns, takes you to the summit, where you can bask in the beauty and the solitude that sets it apart from its more famous counterpart. From here on, it's all descending, letting the wind rush past you, as you return to the welcoming embrace of La Genzianella. If you managed to do this loop, I would suggest treating yourself with a massage!

stelvio and umbrail - 100 km / 3.200 hm

Well, Stelvio! A climb that I can admire but also get me frustrated. Its grandeur, especially from the Prato side, is indeed probably one of the most beautiful mountain passes this world offers. However, its popularity also means loads of cars, motorcycles, campervans, and of course cyclists, ranging from the seasoned to the ambitious newbie, all sharing the road.

From Bormio, there’s no way around it to tackle this side first. Labeling it as merely ‘the other side’ wouldn’t be fair. As you go up here, you’re treated to a panorama of majestic rocks, waterfalls, and green alpine meadows that seamlessly transition into true mountain landscapes.

On my latest venture, I chose to wind my way down to Prato. Interestingly, with most of the traffic going up here, you pretty much have a free lane to navigate those 48 hairpins on speed. But, a word to the wise: always be cautious of the occasional motorcyclist taking liberties in those corners! The base greets you with a serene cycling path from Prato to Laudes. From here, a counter-clockwise spin towards Santa Maria Val Müstair subtly ushers you into Switzerland and then serves you the Umbrail.

With its 36 switchbacks, this is the Stelvio's tranquil sibling I think. The pristine tarmac winds through forests, leading to the lone Gasthaus Alpenrösli before unfurling into untouched alpine majesty. This route is a solace for those seeking a quieter, more solitary climb, occasionally punctuated by the chirps of marmots if you’re lucky. Reaching the summit reveals the Swiss-Italian borderline, and a slight descent merges you back onto the familiar Stelvio path to Bormio.

For those still brimming with energy, a trek to the Stelvio's peak and back down, tackling also that side makes for a fitting, if challenging, finale. Up to you!

the visual story

While I pride myself on my ability to write well also, as being a photographer mainly, I believe some stories are best told visually. To that end, here you have a curated collection of my cycling snapshots, capturing the very essence of riding from Bormio. One look, and you'll feel the inviting charm and the majesty of the Italian Alps arround this place.

So, let these snapshots be a gentle invitation to treat yourself to a little Bormio getaway!

FAQ’s

What are the specific cycling routes and their difficulty levels available around Hotel La Genzianella?
To fully enjoy the cycling routes suggested in this blogpost, a robust fitness level is recommended. Except for the Passo Torri Di Freale ride, which is 40 km, all other routes are over 100 km with considerable elevation gains, demanding good physical conditioning.
Does Hotel La Genzianella offer guided cycling tours or support for cyclists planning their routes?
Hotel La Genzianella provides route suggestions and is eager to assist guests with their cycling plans. The hotel also offers guided tours for cyclists, which should be arranged before arrival for the best experience.
Are there any special amenities or services for cyclists during the winter season?
From the beginning of December until mid-April, La Genzianella serves as a warm haven for winter sports. For the remainder of the year, they are happy to cater for cyclists, offering the perfect base for exploring the surrounding routes with the Stelvio, the Gavia and the Mortirolo close to the hotel.

the Ultimate Cycling Retreat: Hotel La Genzianella in Bormio, next to the Stelvio Pass

the full context