is Mallorca the best cycling destination in Europe?
Even though I have been riding bikes for over 30 years, I recently visited Mallorca for the first time and spent a month there. Initially, I had avoided the island due to its popularity, as everyone seemed to talk about it, and pictures of its famous spots kept popping up on my Instagram timeline. Stubborn as I am, I chose to go against the grain and rather explore lesser-known places all the time.
However, after my visit, I realized that it’s true that Mallorca offers a unique terrain with a diverse range of cycling experiences. You can find coastal roads, challenging climbs, rolling hills, unique monastery climbs, and even relatively flat terrains. The quality of the tarmac is not really great, but on the other hand, I never felt unsafe. The drivers are patient and considerate towards cyclists, even if you are out with a group. Additionally, the tourism infrastructure is well-developed, offering numerous choices for accommodation and excellent coffee shops.
However, I also have some reservations about the cycling culture in Mallorca, which can be a bit overwhelming for someone like me who prefers a more solitary cycling experience. There are many local bike shops, cycling clubs, and events such as the Mallorca 312, which attracts a large number of cyclists. The famous stretches can be extremely busy, and the difference in skill levels among cyclists can make it tricky for everyone to navigate safely.
All in all, I would say that riding around Mallorca at least once in your life is a must-do experience. However, it's essential to consider your preferences and priorities to make the most of your trip.
So, lots to talk about. Let’s dive into it…
the climate
Mallorca's mild climate and abundant sunshine make it a popular destination for cyclists seeking to escape the harsh winter weather in northern Europe. I had the opportunity to visit the island myself for a period of five weeks, from mid-February to mid-March. Despite the island's reputation for low rainfall throughout the year, the weather during my stay was anything but stable.
During my five-week stay, I encountered a total of seven rainy days where I didn’t bring my rain jacket. Most of the time, the weather was chilly, with temperatures not exceeding 15 degrees Celsius, and a possibility of intermittent showers. Although there were instances of prolonged rain in the morning, it often cleared up by the afternoon, allowing us to ride anyway. However, there were also days when it rained incessantly throughout the day. To make matters worse, a massive storm hit the island, causing a foot of snow to fall in the mountains and leading to road closures due to landslides. I get it that you can't make deliberate decisions on just a single experience, but if you're looking for good winter weather in Europe, I'd better consider Calpe.
Let me also tell you that I had about 7 days, with little wind, lots of sunshine and a temperature of about 20 degrees. Days to cherish!
roads and traffic
Mallorca boasts a wide range of terrains that cater to cyclists of varying skill levels, including awe-inspiring coastal roads, demanding climbs, and numerous rolling hills.
Overall, the quality of the road surfaces in Mallorca is satisfactory, with major roads typically providing top-notch tarmac. However, caution is advised when riding backroads, as potholes can be a common occurrence. It's also worth noting that inland areas are marked by walls on both sides of the road, which can hinder visibility in corners. Although traffic is relatively sparse, particularly in quieter areas, it is essential to remain alert and attentive!
One of the island's standout features is its impressive network of roads, and drivers are generally patient when overtaking, especially when riding in groups. While most roads are relatively quiet, the more popular areas, such as the Tramuntana Mountains, can get congested with other cyclists, cars, buses, and motorhomes.
my top 5 climbs on Mallorca
Let me provide you with this list of my personal top X climbs that I think you should not miss out on.
#1 - SA CALOBRA
Well, Sa Calobra. The bucket list item for many. You heard about it. You have seen it. Or you have done it. For me, Sa Calobra was an experience I completely underestimated. Simply because I tend to get sceptical when everyone is excited about something. In my eyes, it then can only turn out in disappointment, right? Well, it certainly didn't...
What first of all is special about Sa Calobra is that you usually first climb a mountain before you get to descend it. With Sa Calobra it feels like the world is upside down. Sa Calobra apparently is a dead-end road. It ends at the coast, the beach, under the cliffs, in a tiny little village called Port de Sa Calobra.
So before you get to descending, you first climb up a bit to the top of the Coll dels Reis which takes you to this viewpoint that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and coastline. From there the big fun begins.
Hairpin turns and steep sections provide a challenging 600 meters descent over approximately 9km. All twisty switchbacks including the famous "Sa Calobra Knot”. A double hairpin bend is THE photo opportunity for every cyclist. This experience is just exhilarating, with thrilling views and high-speed sections. The tight turns require a high level of concentration and skill, but it’s so rewarding!
Funny enough, going up again is actually a formality that I underestimated a bit.
In short; climbing and descending Sa Calobra truly is a must-do for any cyclist visiting Mallorca. It’s not hard to see why.
#2 cap Formentor
And, Cap Formentor. The other bucket list item I guess. Also, Cap Formentor was underestimated by me. Same reason. Because I got sceptical seeing the famous Formentor lighthouse over and over again on my Instagram feed. Usually, with these things, pictures beat the experience. But no, no, no. Nothing like that. Cap Formentor is more than just the lighthouse. And it's definitely hard to capture and share the experience in a few photos...
Coming from Port d' Pollenca you approach the foothills of the Tramuntana Mountains. From there you begin to climb steadily for 7.4 kilometres until reaching the top of the Coll de Femenia. As you gain elevation, the views become increasingly impressive. However, no need to look over the shoulder. Sure, it's worth it. But you'll come back for the descent as also the road to Cap Formentor is a dead-end one.
Next, you'll pass through dense forests and rocky outcroppings, with panoramic vistas of the sea and mountains around every corner. Great tarmac and plenty of tight turns and switchbacks to keep things interesting.
After some nice and intermediate climbing, you will reach the final ascent to the Cap Formentor lighthouse while you enjoy spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea, the surrounding mountains, and the cliffs. These last stretches are fast and these winding roads take you back down to sea level from where you can go up to the lighthouse itself.
#3 Coll de Sóller
I loved the Coll de Sollér from Sollér. As soon as you turn left on the main road, you'll be greeted by a series of tight switchbacks that wind their way up. Nothing too serious. Gradients of up to 8%.
As you continue, you'll be treated to panoramic views of the Soller Valley, with its terraced olive groves and orange orchards stretching out below you. The climb offers smooth tarmac, no less than 26 tight switchbacks, and is approximately 5.5km long while gaining 400 meters of elevation.
There's not much to do at the top but I do encourage you to take in the stunning views. From here, you can choose to continue on to the picturesque village of Deia or descend down the other side of the mountain towards Bunyola.
Towards Bunyola is an exhilarating descent that offers plenty of sweeping curves, turns and numerous switchbacks that wind their way down. As you descend, you'll be treated to stunning views of the surrounding landscape, with the sea visible in the distance.
#4 Coll de sa battalla
Actually, you can't really miss this one. It depends a bit on where you are based on the island, but Coll de Sa Battalla is actually the gateway to Sa Calobra and Puig Major anyway.
I just really liked climbing and descending this one. Coming from the charming town of Selva, the initial section of the route is relatively easygoing. As you approach the base of the climb the road starts to climb steadily, with several sections featuring gradients of over 10%. Tarmac is outstanding and the scenery is nice. Lots of nice turns and switchbacks while you are surrounded by forests with panoramic views of the valleys and peaks.
#5 San Salvador monastery
All these famous climbs are located in the Tramuntana Mountains. All on the northwest side of the island. Still, if only for the sake of exploring Mallorca's diversity, I think you should do at least one ride eastward. As the island furthermore is more like rolling hills, it's easier to do a big loop. And I suggest planning a route towards the San Salvador Monastery.
Starting just outside the town of Felanitx, the PMV-4011 road is the one you should go after. Dead-ending at the top after 5 kilometres.
Expect some great views from the top, but you'll need to work hard to get there. Stats let the gradient look a steady 7%, the winding road and its switchbacks can actually fluctuate well into double figures at times. For sure the punchier cyclists will like this one.
I have been told that this is the nicest monastery climb on the island. I also liked the Ermite De Betlem one near Arta very much. But there are plenty of those including Lluc Monastery, Randa Monastery, and Montesion Monastery for example.
best coffee stops
Okay, first let me emphasize once again that I am the stubborn kind of guy. Means, that when it comes to coffee stops, I rather avoid the places where every cyclist goes. Sure Sa Mola13 in Sineu is a nice place. Located in an old windmill and serves excellent coffee, homemade pastries, and light bites. And sure Cycling Planet deserves a mention with all its cycling memorabilia on the walls.
I know it's me, but these just aren't the places I'm looking for. I rather find authentic places where I can get a proper espresso, try local pastries, where I am forced to speak Spanish and where they are delighted to serve a cyclist.
That said, I'm sure the island is teeming with places like this. However, I found the ones below and instead of discovering new places, I loved coming back to these three.
Cafetaria Café del Rosario, Inca
Cafetaria Café del Rosario is a cosy cafe located in the heart of Inca. This family-owned business (I think a woman with her three daughters) serves excellent coffee, fresh homemade pastries, and a variety of sandwiches and other bites. I love the warm and inviting atmosphere with friendly girls who are happy to serve you well. Whether you're looking to fuel up before a long day on the bike or just looking for a comfortable spot during your recovery ride, Cafetaria Café del Rosario is definitely worth dropping by.
Forn i Pastisseria Ca’n Molinas, Valldemossa
Forn i Pastisseria Ca’n Molinas is a charming bakery located in Valldemossa. Another family-owned business that has been serving up delicious baked goods since 1910 and the recipes have been passed down through generations. The bakery is best known for its traditional Ensaimadas. A sweet Mallorcean speciality.
The bakery is housed in a historic building that is decorated with vintage baking equipment, giving it a charming old-world feel. The staff is incredibly warm and friendly, and the aroma of freshly baked goods fills the air.
Whether you're in the mood for a sweet pastry or a savoury snack, Forn i Pastisseria Ca’n Molinas has something to satisfy cravings.
Let’s say their appearance on the internet is weak. But Google and Maps are your friends.
La Molienda Bisbe, Palma
For me, there are few things more satisfying than starting rolling for 60 to 90 minutes and then making a first stop to have a delicious breakfast and an espresso to go with it. And if you happen to ride around Palma, there's no better place to satisfy those cravings than La Molienda Bisbe.
First and foremost, the food at La Molienda Bisbe is simply top-notch. From fresh pastries to hearty sandwiches, there's something for everyone on the menu. And if you're looking for a healthy and filling option, I highly recommend trying their oatmeal - it's simply delicious.
But it's not just the food that makes La Molienda Bisbe a must-visit spot for cyclists in Mallorca. You have the option to enjoy your breakfast and coffee either inside the cosy cafe or outside on the lovely terrace. The indoor seating area is perfect for those cooler mornings, while the outdoor terrace is a great spot to soak up some rays.
Whether you’re looking for a great breakfast spot or just a stop in Palma to fuel up properly, I highly recommend giving La Molienda Bisbe a try.
mallorca route suggestions
Time to wrap this up! Although I would love to come up with route suggestions, it’s hard to create some with Komoot as things really depend on where you base yourself on the island and your fitness levels.
For me, a bit North of Palma is perfect. Sure, Pollença and Cap Formentor are relatively far. But you can get there anyway if you plan a big loop. Furthermore Sollér, Puig Major, and Sa Calobra are all within reach. Besides you can choose whether to head West into the mountains or East for easier rides.
Last but not least, Palma itself is a really nice city. Despite the insane number of traffic lights, there are cool places to hang out. Also casually. Of course, I recommend visiting Pas Normal Studios flagship store. No matter what kind of kit you wear, you are more than welcome to join their social rides. If that's not your thing, they're happy to help with route suggestions. Because, nothing beats local knowledge, right!?