Road Cycling Bliss in Latin America: a Hidden Gem Called Ecuador
From Skepticism to Excitement
Cycling through the heart of Ecuador was an idea that, like many cyclists, I hadn't fully wrapped my head around before. My initial concerns mirrored what you're probably thinking: How are the road conditions? Isn’t the traffic too crazy? What about the overall safety situation? And for those a bit more versed in Ecuador's geography, the question of altitude loomed large. Is it feasible to ride your bike at such heights?
My curiosity about cycling in this enigmatic country was piqued during a chance encounter with Pepe, an avid cyclist from Ecuador. We met on the sunny roads of Mallorca. Hailing from Quito, he was the perfect person to quench my thirst for information about cycling in his homeland. Pepe painted such a vivid picture that I hung on his every word, growing more intrigued by the minute. Following him on Instagram only fueled my daydreams further, promptly putting Ecuador on my cycling bucket list.
Things escalated from there as Pepe reached out to me on Instagram with a proposition that caught me off guard: "Hey Rik, remember our chats? I'd like to connect you with a good friend of mine, Ramiro. Would that be okay?"
Without fully grasping the context, that very evening, I found myself in a Google Meet call with a guy called Ramiro. And he introduced me to "Clipped Tours" – his fledgling Cycling Tour Operator, known for their cycling trips across Latin America. During our meeting, he shared a sneak peek of a meticulously planned round trip starting and ending in Quito. With each page of the road book he walked me through, my excitement grew. The thoughtfully chosen routes, accommodations, and the sheer adventure of this so-called “Latitude 0° – Equator escape“ spoke directly to my cyclist's heart.
In less than half an hour, Ramiro not only solidified Ecuador's spot at the top of my bucket list but also had me booking a direct flight from Amsterdam to Quito with KLM that very night...
The stretch of time between that pivotal call and my departure to Quito was brief but marked by meticulous preparation. Beyond the detailed roadbook already in my possession, I received weekly emails from Clipped Tours, each one smoothing out a piece of the planning puzzle. They sought specifics like my flight details for seamless airport pickups, my clothing sizes for reasons soon to be revealed, and any dietary preferences to ensure every meal was a delight.
But perhaps the most invaluable piece of pre-trip communication was the comprehensive packing list they sent over. A carefully curated guide designed to prepare me for the drastic shift from the Dutch winter chill to Ecuador’s perpetual spring — a season that promised to feel more like summer through my eyes. The list proved to be a godsend, ensuring I packed neither too much nor too little for what was shaping up to be the adventure of a lifetime.
On February 1st, I found myself boarding a Boeing 777 at 10 a.m. Dutch time for an 11-hour flight that would touch me down at Aeropuerto Internacional de Quito by 4 p.m.
touching down in ecuador
My flight, though long, was surprisingly comfortable, and after navigating through the airport formalities and collecting my luggage and bike case, Ramiro was already waiting for me in the arrivals hall. The drive to our first accommodation felt all too brief, our mutual curiosity about each other’s lives fueling endless conversation. Upon arrival at what would be my home for the next four nights, we unloaded my luggage. Ramiro assured me that I wouldn’t need to carry that myself; it would be taken care of and delivered straight to my room. The La Palma Polo Club, a stunningly luxurious hotel, welcomed me with open arms, and I soon found myself settling into a spacious, elegantly appointed suite. Greeting me on the bed was a “Clipped Experience” bag, complete with my name tag and a heartfelt, handwritten welcome note. The warmth of the welcome was truly amazing.
Thanks to the KLM flight schedule, I had arrived a day before the other participants. With Ramiro attending to other preparations, I went for a delightful solo dinner at the Polo Club’s restaurant, savoring a meal against the backdrop of a breathtaking sunset. Despite the lengthy travel and a six-hour time difference, jet lag barely touched me. Energized, I unpacked my bike that evening, meticulously reassembling it and organizing my gear, at least for the next 4 nights.
Later, a WhatsApp message from Ramiro popped up, extending an invitation to join a group ride from Velodrom the following morning if I felt up to it. With plans set, I brushed my teeth and collapsed onto my pillow, a deep, contented sigh escaping me as I drifted off to sleep.
First ride around Quito
My alarm was set for 5:50 am, but the excitement had me wide awake by 5:30 am. Maybe it was a touch of jet lag, but mostly, it was sheer anticipation. In this spacious suite, rolling out my yoga mat wasn’t the usual puzzle it is in smaller hotel rooms. I enjoyed my morning routine with a yoga session, followed by a refreshing cold shower. Then I got dressed in my cycling kit and headed down to meet Ramiro in the lobby’s coffee bar. There, I was introduced to John, also attending the “Clipped Experience” from New York City. Together, we savored our espressos—the first taste of Ecuadorian coffee for me, leaving me craving more.
The trio of us made our way to Velodrom, located on the outskirts of Quito. Joining a group of about 15, we kicked off my first Latin American ride at 7 am. Surprisingly, despite my concerns, these Ecuadorian people spoke excellent English, making for a fantastic riding company.
The initial 30 minutes were a bit of a culture shock: bustling major roads, dense traffic, and what seemed like a unique interpretation of traffic rules—at least from my Western European viewpoint. However, the chaotic first kilometers soon melted away into serenity. As the roads narrowed and the traffic dissipated, the sight of volcanoes peaking through the clouds, encircling us, was quite an experience, all while the temperature gently climbed to a cozy 25 degrees Celsius—my instant summer.
The lush greenery at this altitude of around 2,500 meters was strikingly beautiful. And while the altitude didn't feel too imposing. However, my heart rate went about 20 beats above its norm with watts as my gauge, telling me a different story. Despite the data, I felt surprisingly good.
As we only had an espresso to jumpstart our morning, about two hours into our ride, the need for extra provisions became apparent. Now, we didn’t stop for a local supermarket as I'm accustomed to, but rather, intriguingly, from someone's home. I later learned that it's common here for many to run small shops right out of their living rooms. You simply inquire at the door for what you need—in our case, some fruit—and the homeowner vanishes only to reappear with your request, bananas in hand for us. As we continued, my camera hardly left my hands. Every turn, every uphill section presented something unique, triggering both the cyclist and the photographer in me.
We finished the ride near where we started, at a local bakery where we finally had breakfast. To my surprise, the bakery was run by a Dutch guy who had made Ecuador his home. What are the odds? Despite his array of Dutch eierkoeken and krentenbollen, I opted for fruit, yogurt, and granola. The freshness of the fruit was unparalleled—something I enjoyed a lot in for the days to follow, leaving me to wonder if I could ever enjoy pineapple back in the Netherlands again.
Our early start meant we returned to the Polo Club before the day even reached its peak. I found myself by the pool, book in hand, enjoying the tranquility of the afternoon as the other participants arrived one by one.
The next day marked the official start of our "Clipped Experience." Not with a cycling activity but with a comprehensive introduction to Quito, the heart of Ecuador. Now, I’ll be honest - typically, tourist bus tours through capital cities wouldn’t be my jam. However, this was an experience that made me glad I set aside my preconceptions. The tour unveiled every facet of Quito, taking us from the vibrant streets to eventually the iconic "El Panecillo," a sacred hill crowned with the world's largest aluminum statue, offering panoramic views that stretched from the northern to the southern tips of the city.
As the day transitioned into evening, we were treated to a dinner that was nothing short of a celebration of Ecuadorian traditional flavors. The perfect culinary prelude to the tour that awaited us.
Stage 1: Quito to Termas de Papallacta over the Majestic Paso Papallacta
I admit, when I first laid eyes on the road book, I was slightly disappointed by the short distances of the planned rides. Not one exceeded the 100-kilometer mark, and I pondered whether it was worth it to travel all the way to Ecuador for just a handful of short rides.
However, by the time I finished stage 1, I quickly grasped that distances here are deceiving. Despite logging less than 55 kilometers for this initial stage, my Wahoo told me it had me taken over two and a half hours.
Herein lies the catch. Cycling in Ecuador is incomparable to anything I've experienced in the Netherlands, or perhaps even in Europe. Starting our ride at an elevation of 2,540 meters—just 100 meters shy of the Col de Galibier's summit, occasionally dubbed the 'roof of the Tour de France.' From that point, we ascended until reaching the peak of Paso Papallacta (4,063 meters) 33 kilometers later. At such heights, these altitudes are a genuine concern for some, even without much physical effort. Yet, despite the lightheadedness and heavy legs, we proved ourselves to be fit cyclists. I'd even venture to say this climb ranks among the most enjoyable ones I've ever tackled.
But as I mentioned, this experience diverges greatly from European rides. The ascent was along a wide, four-lane road. Although there's a bike lane, it's seldom used and scattered with grit. Moreover, the road climbs steadily without a single curve. From a cognitive standpoint, comprehending and digesting 12% inclines is a challenge. Despite that, all these elements somehow contributed to an unexpectedly appealing experience nevertheless.
Despite being a main road, traffic was more subdued than what you’d typically find on Alpine or Dolomite roads. The width of such a broad roadway also offered ease when overtaken by a truck. And there’s something about those large, chrome-laden American Mack trucks that captivates the imagination more than the typical European Renault or Volvo ones, or perhaps that's just me.
As you meander upward, the surrounding views are equally mesmerizing. In a single day, you traverse Ecuador's diverse ecosystems. The formidable Andes encircle you, and when the clouds part, you can glimpse snow-capped volcanoes.
The summit was not only marked by that Paso Papallacta sign but also by Clipped. Treating us so well with an elaborate summit lunch, where I tasted a granadilla for the first time. Again, I must emphasize—the fruit here is otherworldly.
The descent to the day's final short climb was a novel experience for me, as I'd never before descended nearly 1,000 meters without once touching my brakes. The road from the summit towards the Amazon is broad and, aside from some mild bends, virtually straight.
What ensued was a brutally steep climb to Termas de Papallacta, where we concluded the first stage in style with a dip in the natural hot springs.
After that nice dip, we were chauffeured back to La Palma Polo Club, where our ride had commenced that morning. Awaiting us on our beds were T-shirts emblazoned with the Paso Papallacta summit sign, which we donned with pride as we sat down to a hearty, calorie-rich dinner at the Hotels’ restaurant. That evening was spent packing and preparing to check out, as we would bid adieu to this magnificent location for the time being, anticipating our return after the final “Latitude 0° – Equator Escape” stage.
Stage 2: Quito to cayambe riding trough diverse microclimates
Stage 2 took us through a kaleidoscope of microclimates and breathtaking landscapes, as we crossed the equator towards Cayambe. A ride via what they call the picturesque “Avenue of the Volcanoes” and well, you get the image. Ultimately we unwinded at the historic “Molino San Juan” hacienda.
Our leisurely start to the morning would come back and hit us, quite literally. We didn’t hit the road for this stage until just after 9:30, embarking on a ride that, despite starting from the same location as yesterday, promised an entirely different visual feast.
The initial descent took us to just under 2,000 meters. At this point, I began to truly embrace these expansive roads! In fact, I snagged a KOM during the descent from Quito Airport to Collas, clocking in at an average speed of 87.9 km/h. Ugh…
As we progressed, the landscape morphed into a more arid environment, dotted with rocks and drought-resistant flora. From there, we gradually climbed back to around 3,000 meters, where a splendid lunch awaited us at a grand estate, midway through our journey.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, we lingered over lunch a tad too long, enchanted by the stunning locale and the smorgasbord of delectable fare. However, the looming clouds in our path hinted at a wet conclusion to our ride.
To merely describe the ensuing conditions as “rainy” would be an understatement. I can’t recall ever having to navigate through such intense downpours, where roads transformed into rivers. Yet, in Ecuador, it seems disappointment is an unfamiliar concept. Despite the last 20 kilometers transitioning from a drizzle to a downpour bathed in sunshine, my spirits remained high.
Once we arrived at the enchanting Hacienda Molino San Juan, I found solace by the fireplace, drying my shoes, while the diligent Clipped Tours crew ensured our bikes received a thorough cleaning. I must say it was quite a while ago when I didn’t do the cleaning myself. Could the day have ended any better?
That evening, I found myself falling even deeper in love with Ecuadorian cuisine. The hacienda, brimming with authenticity, epitomizes the quintessential Ecuadorian experience—a discovery that only unfolds as you delve deeper into this magnificent country, capturing the very essence of making a cycling trip here.
Stage 3: cayambe to the laguna de Cuicocha trough the historic zuleta valley
Yesterday, the weather gifted us a lesson in Ecuador's climatic quirks, at least for February. The folks from Clipped shared a local view on that: late-afternoon and evening downpours often herald sun-kissed mornings the next day...
So, intending to sidestep the rain, save myself another pair of white socks, and bask in as much sunshine as possible, we took off with stage 3 a bit earlier and hopped on at 8 AM. The initial morning chill was fleeting, and within a mere 15 minutes, all our windbreakers were stowed away, ready to attack this 75-kilometre stage.
The sheer diversity within a mere 150-kilometer radius felt like traversing three different countries in as many days. The variance is astounding, with each mountain or volcano fostering its own microclimate, complete with unique vegetation, landscapes, and by extension, its roads.
Stage 3 wove us through a series of shorter climbs and smaller roads, climaxing in a final climb. Painting a picture of the day's landscape feels like a daunting task, given its distinct difference from European sceneries. The ride's onset bore a slight resemblance to northern Switzerland, but with green mountains replacing hills, and our elevation oscillating between 2,500 and 3,500 meters.
A surprise encounter in the authentic village of Trojaloma with Ineos rider Jhonatan Narvaez added an unexpected twist to our ride. The Clipped team's familiarity with Narvaez led to him joining us for the last 20-kilometer climb up to Laguna Cuicocha where the summit offered another generous lunch.
Early afternoon we rounded off our ride at the opulent Hacienda Cusín, situated at the base of the Imbabura volcano. The welcoming sports massage that awaited us was both anticipated and greatly appreciated. I must confess, this whole experience could easily become something I'd long for regularly.
With stage 3 securely in the books, my only challenge now is how to reignite my passion for cycling back in Europe after such an enriching experience. The vibrancy and inspiration found here are unparalleled, leaving me pondering how I could ever hope to match this experience again...
Rest Day: Spinning Around Lago San Pablo with a Stellar Coffee Break in Otavalo
Though not on the official itinerary, the rest day beckoned me to hop on my bike for a leisurely spin, with the promise of excellent espresso as my guiding star.
Accompanied by two fellow group members, José and Elsa, we went on a quaint loop around Lago San Pablo, extending our ride to the city of Otavalo. Our coffee quest led us to Tayta Wasi, a cozy coffee place where we had some truly exceptional espressos before heading back to Hacienda Cusín along the main thoroughfare.
While we savoured our coffee ride, the rest of our group explored the famed Otavalo Market. Here, a significant portion of the town transforms into a bustling hub, teeming with stalls that offer an eclectic mix of goods: from textiles, tagua nut jewellery, and musical instruments to dream catchers and leather goods. The market is a treasure trove of indigenous costumes, hand-painted platters and trays, purses, clothing, spices, raw foods, and wool spools, promising a sensory overload and a vivid snapshot of local craftsmanship.
Our day culminated in a delightful lunch at a charming lakeside restaurant, cradled by the majestic embrace of the surrounding mountains and the serene tranquillity of Lake San Pablo.
This rest day also provided a perfect opportunity for some downtime, allowing me to catch up on some work and recharge my batteries, both literally and metaphorically. Fully rejuvenated, I found myself eagerly ready for the upcoming two stages promised.
Stage 4: A Sun-Drenched ride from Lake San Pablo to the artisan city of Cotacachi
Stage 4 was another unforgettable one. A scenic 80 kilometers (with 1,500 meters of elevation gain) that took us from the tranquil shores of Lake San Pablo to Cotacachi.
This stage brought us the 'best' weather yet, with a generous serving of sunshine. The mercury soared past the 40-degree Celsius mark, also making it the most physically demanding stage for me thus far.
The scenery remained an endless source of awe. Volcanoes loomed large over the landscape, with the snow-capped peak of Nevado Cayambe (5,890 meters) capturing the spotlight.
After conquering three climbs, each marked by some ruthlessly steep inclines, we culminated our ride with a check-in at the enchanting Garden Hotel La Mirage. The place was a revelation! Each of us settled into our own bungalow, a spacious suite drenched in luxury. After a post-ride-dip in the pool, I savored a shower under a glass rooftop that framed the palm trees in 'my' very own garden.
As I caught up on the day’s adventures with my wife via Facetime, my bike, left idly outside, received another polish, glistening and ready for tomorrow’s final stage.
Returning to my suite after indulging in another splendid and gastronomic dinner, I discovered my bedsheets open, curtains drawn, and the fireplace lit, adding a cozy warmth to the evening chill. Let’s call it the cherry on top of an already extraordinary day.
At this point, and after another insanely nice ride, it's crystal clear to me that we're being pampered beyond measure during this Clipped Experience...
Stage 5: A Grand Finale finishing at the Majestic Mojanda Lagoon
The final stage of our Clipped Experience was insanely challenging, marked by its crazy steep uphill finish.
This climax truly tested our spirits, bringing us face-to-face with a climb that rivaled the toughest ones you will find in Europe. This so-called Mojanda climb was a relentless 13-kilometer ascent, with the last 4 kilometers pushing us to our limits with gradients oscillating between 15% and 20%. With its summit soaring at 3,960 meters, it's no wonder this climb felt like a battle against gravity itself.
Despite the stage's modest 52 kilometers (and 1,700 meters of elevation gain), the ride commenced on a gentler note. The steady climb allowed me occasional breaks to snap some sweet shots, at least until we encountered the final climb's most formidable section—a true test of mettle.
Yet, the suffering on that final climb was swiftly forgotten amidst the mesmerizing views from the top. Our triumphant arrival was celebrated with a well-deserved lunch, providing vistas that seemed to stretch into eternity.
Looking back on the entirety of the Clipped Experience, it's astonishing to think it lasted only a week. The depth and intensity of these adventures made it feel like an entire month spent exploring Ecuador's majestic landscapes.
Riding alongside such a wonderful group, I found friendship not just within Ecuador but also with fellow cyclists from the US, France, and Spain.
I’m 100% honest if I say that this Clipped Experience stands out in every conceivable way. From the handpicked routes that challenged and charmed us, to the unique allure of our boutique stays, the delightful culinary treats, and the exceptional service from an amazing crew. Every element was in a class of its own. I wholeheartedly recommend everyone to go on a Clipped Experience at least once in your lifetime. It's the kind of trip that promises to leave you awe-struck and create memories for life.
Ecuador, alongside the incredible folks at Clipped, has treated me exceptionally well. As I reminisce about this trip, I'm thrilled to announce I’ll also will join the next Clipped Tours Experience. The "Espresso Experience" in Colombia this August. Because after this experience being crazy good, I hardly can’t wait to see what Latin America has to offer in Colombia, a country that for sure holds an even bigger cycling scene.
All images featured in this article were captured by Joaquín Ruales and myself. All rights reserved.