pedal greece
Ever since I quit racing bikes and struggled upon Instagram, I have this dream. This dream about riding around in areas which are not the most familiar ones for us as cyclists. My favourite tagline: "the best roads, are the ones you haven't ridden", pretty much says it all.
Suddenly I was thinking of Greece. The mainland. I was quite sure this area could be such a place. Something to discover. My search for possibilities went straight to this organisation called Pedal Greece. So, I got in touch.
Founders Tom and Agi told me they deliver the ultimate cycling holidays in that area. Serving the best routes for riding around the wild terrain of the Greek Peloponesse. Plus, they’re really into Greek culture, food and sun. You can imagine I was convinced within a few seconds.
Their concept delivers guided tours which you can book individually or with a group. Availability is limited as they want to keep it all small scale in order to deliver high quality and service. They serve fixed dates on their website but offer custom as well.
As the guys were kinda starting things up again after lots of covid restrictions, we decided to get down there the custom way. At the end of September. Just to find out what Pedal Greece has to offer late summer. Together with my mate Maarten, on behalf of Acid Films, I took the plane straight to Greece. Agi picked us up at the International Airport of Athens…
preps
In the run-up to my trip, everything felt very relaxed. I only had to book a return ticket which I did with Transavia. Costs? Just € 250,00 including bike. I rented a bike case via wiel-rent, and the guys of Pedal Greece told us they would take care of the rest. The transfers, the routes, our stays, food, and everything else.
arrival
The flight to Athens was flawless. As said, Pedal Greece co-founder Agi picked us up at the airport. I exchanged my jeans and sweater for shorts and a t-shirt. Local Greece temperature was measured 15 ℃ higher than at that time back home. Nice start!
meeting pedal greece
Agi took us to all the way down to Athens city center. He checked us in at our first stay and helped us with our bags. Then we simply crossed the street and settled down on the terrace of 48x17 Bike Cafe. Also run by Agi, this place appeared the perfect spot to enjoy speciality coffee, home made lemonade and a special menu of Greek tacos. All while surrounded by bikes, custom builds, frame sets I haven’t seen for years, and a great selection of gear. All with a retro twist.
It’s where Tom, the other Pedal Greece co-founder, joined us. We quickly felt this click and instantly had proper laughs. After a sublime taco dish we enjoyed great espressos and ice coffee, while Agi and Tom took us into the plan for the upcoming days.
getting the bike ready
Coming from the cafe, Agi has his 48x17 cycles workshop just around the corner. A nice and cozy place where he built his bike projects in peace. It’s at this place where we took my bike out of the case and put it back together. At that point, both me and my bike were longing to go out and ride in Greece!
stage 1, Nafplio - leonidio
83 km - 900 meters elevation gain
First ride in Greece was already something special! Coming from Athens, we got down to Nafplio by car. From there, I took off by bike, joined by Agi. My mate Maarten following along by car while shooting pics.
Weather was cloudy, but temperatures up to 25 °C were perfect to acclimate a bit.
Along the coastline we headed south. A fairly easy route to get a first impression of this area. The so-called Peloponnese region. A large peninsula located at the southern tip of the Greek mainland.
I had no clue what to expect about riding around here in Greece. But, this first experience was insanely good. This coastal stretch offered incredible views. And easy to enjoy as there is nearly any traffic around. And if you encounter cars, they pass by with lots of patience while keeping perfect distance. Oh, and let me mention these really fine road conditions as well! Both this quiet and relaxed traffic, as all this nice tarmac were beyond my expectations! I haven't seen any place like this by bike! And this first day was, with no doubt, the perfect way to kick off our trip!
For the night, we settled down at a fancy boutique hotel in the middle of Leonidio. A small village surrounded by this enchanting landscape which offers a beautiful view over this little village. After a great night of sleep we had an amazing extended traditional Greek breakfast experience on the rooftop terrace with a view. All while soaking up some Greek sunshine and a clear blue sky. While getting ready for day 2 on the bike.
Link to stage 1 can be found here on Komoot or here on Strava.
stage 2, leonidio - Sparta
85 km - 1,500 meters elevation gain
I didn't see any other cyclist. We're the only ones here! But it doesn't make any sense!
Stage 2 was again so good! From our hotel, we went straight uphill. From sea-level at Leonidio, up to 1,200 meters of altitude. At the top we rolled into this traditional mountain village called Kosmas. We made a stop for espressos and had all different kinds of traditional sweet Greek baklava. Delicious traditional pastry made of layers of crispy golden brown phyllo and garnished with honey syrup. Simply heaven!
Maarten and I both got us some Greek honey there in a local shop. Just to take some of this sweetness back home with us. Then we rolled all the way down to Sparta to check in at a new sublime hotel. For two nights this time.
What a superb day on the bike again! Never ending winding roads. Superb climbing. Switchbacks. Incredible views. Pure solitude. While experiencing the lightest traffic I've ever seen within Europe. Add this clear blue sky, a vitamine D overdosis and a 30 °C temperature. Although most parts of Europe are getting ready for fall late September. Nothing of that around here. Summer vibes all day long!
Link to stage 2 can be found here on Komoot or here on Strava.
stage 3, sparta - Sparta
126 km - 2,500 meters elevation gain
Goosebumps. Pretty much all day long...
This morning, we went straight to a square where we had breakfast. While topping off with a coffee, I was waiting for 'the guys' who would join me on my ride today. One by one they came rolling in. These guys are so-called ‘pacers’. If you fancy, Pedal Greece gathers a number of local riders to accompany your rides. During the stage they can tell you everything about the environment, about themselves, about the Greek culture. You name it. And of course you can hide yourself a bit in the group when you feel like it.
With the four of us, we took off heading west. In the direction of Mount Taygetos. Right from the start I experienced pretty much all rolling terrain. While slowly but surely gaining altitude from 200 meters up to 850 meters. Logically, the views got better and better while having convos with the guys about anything and everything. I must say, these are great guys to ride along with! And I’m especially amazed about how good their English is.
After about 2 hours of riding, we decided to make our first stop for coffee. Which was a good one as this place felt 100% Greek. Authentic vibe as we joined some locals on the terrace.
Right after, it went all up to 1,400 meters. Climbing for 45 km with a medium slope. But some sections up to 10-14% were challenging with the sun out and a temperature of 35 °C. Although the struggle at some of these sections, complaining was not an option. The views were getting more mountainous with every pedal stroke. Until we were close to the top and got this jawdropping view served. A view over the mountains with the Mediterranean Sea popping up in the background.
The best part might have been the descent back to Sparta. But as we got up there on our way to Kalamata the next day, I’ll save that story for the next section.
Link to stage 3 can be found here on Komoot or here on Strava.
stage 4, sparta - kalamata
61 km - 1,400 meters elevation gain
Departing from Sparta, pushing over the mountains to Kalamata and ending up on the beach in the afternoon. Taking a swim in this clear blue water. And having pancakes as a late lunch. That’s pretty much a long story short.
The longer version tells you I was accompanied again, by three others guys. I was thrilled Doros aka @alexlak told me he would join us until the final day. Loukas aka @loukassoulos would join us to the top of todays climb and then get back to Sparta. Spiros aka @spiros_pap96 had a proper Saturday night with lots of beer and couldn’t make it. Fair enough! Instead, we encountered this kid Petros. Greek Cadet TT-champ. He joined us to the top of today’s climb as well.
That climb appeared to be the spectacular Langada Pass which we rolled down from yesterday. This road links Sparta and Kalamata. Definitely the must stunning pass I’ve seen on this trip. Something like these spectacular Gorges in France, but you’re all alone here! It’s just a stunning climb full of sweet switchbacks and overhanging cliffs on your way up. As you steadily climb the dips and inclines you will enjoy a great view of the mountain and the landscape and seascape below. Simply a breathtaking climbing experience here in Greece.
After saying goodbye to Loukas and Petros, Doros and I got all the way down to Kalamata. Checking in at our wonderful new stay. Again for two nights. Then we both exchanged bibs for swimming shorts and went straight to the beach. For lunch, and a swim.
Link to stage 4 can be found here on Komoot or here on Strava.
stage 5, kalamata - kalamata
152 km - 1,800 meters elevation gain
This second last day of this trip was definitely the toughest one in terms of distance. Add temperatures somewhere between 30 and 36 ℃ and you can imagine it was challenging, but worth it!
By now I can tell you I really love this Greek coffee culture. It’s not only that I had terrific espressos. It’s also the vibe. In contradiction to, let’s say Italy, Greek people actually take their time to enjoy their coffees. It’s more about the social aspect and relaxed vibes. It makes sense that coffee somewhere in the streets of Kalamáta was again our pre-bike-ride ceremony.
Then we headed out for a nice counter clockwise loop around the Missienian peninsula. Some rolling hills here before we reached plenty of hidden beaches and bays at our righthand side. Really nice to make a loop while following the coastline pretty much all the time. Somewhere along our ride I must have lost count regarding the amount of stops we made. Of course to enjoy views and take pictures. But almost as much for coffee, pasta, pastries, fruits.
One of the things I like most about this country is this overload of places you can stop for the greatest food. In particular I totally felt in love with buying fresh fruits during the ride. You can literally get it everywhere! It’s so good! Coming straight from the countryside. Grapes, peaches, plums, too much to mention.
It made that I stopped carrying bars and other food with me. Why would I? I love the way the guys of Pedal Greece are picking the best stuff. They know which fruits I should try. And it’s always amazing. It’s going to be hard to miss out on what I had the last couple of days!
Especially after days like these, I really appreciate the top notch quality of the accommodations where we stay. Pure luxury. And this time so close to the beach. This is totally my jam!
stage 6, kampos - limeni
57 km - 800 meters elevation gain
This was a bucket list thing. Finally fulfilled after this ride! We finished our ride on the beach, and I went straight into the water. Only wearing bibs. And I’m 100% sure it would be a tough challenge to find a better place to do it like that!
This day was my last day out here on the bike around the Greek Peloponnese. It appeared to be a true climax. The cherry on top of something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
Although my fresh Greek mate Doros and I rushed it quite a bit towards our first stop on, we really enjoyed the views while riding down the Mani peninsula. I will never ever get bored rushing these downhill switchback sections. Especially not with this clear blue Mediterranean Sea in sight after every corner. As we hit sea level again after the first couple of climbs, we felt like making a proper stop. At a small bar, hidden in small bay in a small town called Kardamylli, we got ourselves a huge homemade lemonade. To cool off a bit, while the fresh breeze straight from the seaside did a nice job as well.
Once back rolling, we pushed ourselves over the last climb of this trip. Again views, again switchbacks, again open jerseys, again sweat on our stems. Right at the top we told each other ‘well done’, before I went full gas into the descend. I went all in. No photos, no stories. Soaking up this moment. Just me. Just this road ahead. Again no one else there. A smooth left, a sharp right, a sharp left, a smooth right. And this fulfilling noise of going really fast…
A few tears of pure joy went down my cheeks.
I rolled straight to the beach. And as I promised myself, I ended this epic trip with a memorable swim in this clear blue refreshing water…
pedal greece recap
Honestly, this was the best bike trip I’ve done so far. Yes, it’s really hard to compare. But this trip offered so much variety in terms or routes and scenery when riding from one place to another.
This region offers the best sea to summit rides, but also flatter options. For me, the most memorable thing was this climax of each stage in terms of terrain. Something special each day. It was very special to cross two of the most iconic mountains of the Peloponesse. Mount Taygetos and Mount Parnonas. And then passing from a vibrant city as Kalamata to more isolated and rugged land as the Mani peninsula. It made me speechless.
Highlights were Leonidio as the first stop, Kosmas village at the top of Mount Parnonas, and this Mystras village near Sparta, Pylos town and Gialova natural reserve. Oh, let me not forget to mention our stop for drinks on the last day at Kardamylli!
Add these really fine roads, with nearly any traffic. So, no stress while enjoying pure summer vibes. And the guys of Pedal Greece having your back and taking care of really everything.
I had no worries about which way to go on my routes. No worries about where to stay. No worries about where to eat. Even not to worry where to get coffee and refill bottles. It feels so relieving to put the trust in local guys who really care about this stuff. Guys who perfectly are able to link all of this to a cyclists need. Letting me just go out there, enjoy and explore.
I’m 100% sure I stayed at the best hotels, had the best food Greek kitchen offers, and made coffee stops at the most authentic places. All I had to do was the thing I really love. Riding my bike and enjoy.
I’ll be back. No doubt.