6 days of conquering dolomiti climbs
You can’t compare this Dolomiti area with anything else in the world. This area is UNESCO-protected and that makes much sense. The scenery is mind-blowing. Enormous limestone peaks everywhere around you. And the roads weaving their way around it.
The Italian Dolomiti mountains offers so much uniqueness. Riding around here on your roadbike can’t be compared to any other area I’ve ever been. But be aware! You really need to be in shape! And it’s really useful to have some experience with climbing. Otherwise, instead of conquering these climbs, these climbs will conquerer you…
with the two of us
It was by the end of June I reached out to my mate @rubenhoogland to check out if he was interested in what I had on my mind. Spending a week at Hotel Melodia Del Bosco, and bringing our road bikes in order to ride as much Dolomiti climbs as we can. He agreed.
A few weeks later, Sunday, August 5, I got in the car early in the morning. I picked up Ruben at his place, and we headed south together.
When we arrived at Melodia Del Bosco, it was dark and it rained incessantly. But as soon as we got our bags in the lobby, we immediately felt that this was going to be an amazing stay. And that was even before this superb 6-courses diner was served to get us ready for our first bike ride. Tired but well fed we fell asleep in our suite. The great night of sleep and the extended breakfast got us ready for day 1 on the bikes.
day 1 - passo di giau
Day one covered 90 kilometers with 2,500 m elevation gain. The story in short, my mate Ruben suffered as never before...
As said, this great breakfast got us 100% ready to hop on the bikes and head out for this nice loop. We considered it to be a sort of warm-up for the rest of the week. The loop would contain the Passo di Giau (2,235 m) and the Passo Falzarego (2,105m).
Warming up was kinda like an understatement. It turned out Ruben overestimated himself. Not just a bit. A lot! Or, let me put it this way... He underestimated this area. The Passo di Giau pretty much managed to kill him. The number of times his Wahoo automatically paused couldn't be counted with two hands. Fact, his 36 x 28 gear ratio turned out to be unsuitable to digest these tough climbs. Nevertheless, he made it to the top of the Giau and I really felt happy for him the Passo Falzarego was a bit milder on him. Could be that the coke, espresso and local pastry ‘apfelstrudel’ were a bit of help too...
Anyway, when we returned to Badia, Ruben scored himself a 11-32 sprocket and we really had good hoops right away for the rest of the days. As already mentioned, don’t underestimate this area. To be able to enjoy, make sure you bring the right gear ratio!
passo di giau, from Selva di Cadore
The Passo Giau turned out to be an extremely tough test for our first day. But at the same it’s an incredibly picturesque pass in this region. Its top stands at 2,236 metres above sea level and serves 29 switchbacks. It appeared quite a challenge to conquer around 9% gradient over 10 kilometers.
Passo Falzarego, from Cortina d'Ampezzo
The Passo Valparola twists and turns, but offers a lot of straight stretches too. It’s not all switchbacks like other climbs in this area. The Valparola is strikingly beautiful, rising up to 2,192 metres above sea level. For a long time you’re surrounded by dense woods but slowly you enter these rocky landscape framed by giant mountains. It’s a 15.9 kilometers long climb with an average gradient of 5.8%.
day 2 - pederü
Day two covered 63 kilometers with 900 m elevation gain. For Dutch standards, this ride still could be quite extreme. We called it a recovery ride anyway...
The reason for taking it easy today was twofold. On the one hand, Ruben suffered quite a bit on our warming up ride the day before. On the other hand, Ruben had to attend an (online) meeting for work, early in the afternoon. So we decided to ride back and forth to Pederù, in the beautiful Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park.
That worked out quite nicely! This ride was the perfect combination of moderate-intensity while enjoying fantastic views from this idyllic location. The short break at this dead end road was perfect to enjoy Italian espressos and something sweet to go with it at the Refuge Pederü.
After we got back in the hotel we spent our afternoon with both a book and a coke in our hands, on the sunny terrace of this great hotel. Nothing to complain about this day. And we felt ready again for the very next ride.
Pederü, from Al Plan di Mareo
Looking back on this whole week, this was by far the easiest and most relaxed climb we did. Nevertheless a pretty one. Half way you enter beautiful Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park. The landscapes are of a bizarre beauty, as if an overconfident giant had folded stones of all sizes and scattered them here randomly. It felt a bit like the grassland parks of Yosemite, California in the United States. This dead end road starts quite steep from the main road but furthermore the 11.8 kilometers climb just spans 353 metres of altitude with an average gradient of 3%.
Day 3 - passo delle erbe
Day three covered 110 kilometers with 2,800 m elevation gain. Another day in the saddle. And an easy one to remember...
The menu: the Passo delle Erbe (Würzjoch) and the Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch).
The first climb was okay. But getting down appeared to be tricky. I found out I had totally worn my front wheel brake pads the day before. And this steep 30 km descent wasn't the best moment to find out about that. But in the end, I managed to get safely to Chiusa (Klausen) where we found a proper bike shop where the guys were really keen to help me out.
This region is heaven for cyclists. And you can find bike shops pretty much everywhere. So, I was really happy the friendly guy here carved out time to replace the pads right away. And in addition, I asked them to tweak my front derailleur a bit so I could ride with my chain fully to the left without any noises. That was quite a good call as the 30 km stretch of the last climb with a 10% gradient average pretty much felt like a huge feat. But we struggled through it while taking picture after picture.
Passo delle Erbe, from San Martin de Tor
This is a nice quiet climb cut in two. Coming from San Martin de Tor you immediately get a tough part over an open Alpine meadow. Steeply in the direction of a church. Once there you have had the first tough part and the climb flattens out slightly. You even get a descent. Just before the village of Antermoia, where you turn into green fields again, the road starts to rise again. In the village itself climbing gets more serious and when you leave the village you get the hardest part served. It’s not really steep either, but it is mainly the continuous change of rhythm. Nice climb, especially in terms of landscape and view. Pretty quiet too while doing 13.7 kilometers and gaining 946 metres of altitude with an average gradient of 3%.
Passo Gardena, from Plan de Gralba
Although I’m mentioning we did this climb from Plan de Gralba, we actually came all the way from Ponte Gardena. The road to Plan de Gralba was really nasty actually as it was full with traffic. Especially nasty when riding uphill. Nevertheless, the first 10 kilometres we had this road closure (not for bikes) which made it heaven until a certain point. From Plan de Gralba you face two kilometres of winding climbing to arrive at a plateau with an almost flat straight road parallel to the imposing north side of the Sella mountains. A real relief to switch bigger again. The last 2 kilometres to the top goes up again via five short but sweet switchbacks.At pass height you find this 360° view of pure natural beauty. Traffic is pretty bad but it’s worth the climb while doing 5.7 kilometers and gaining 286 metres of altitude with an average gradient of 4.4%.
Day 4 - sella ronda
Day four covered just 67 kilometres with 2,000 m elevation gain. The classic clockwise Sella Ronda loop, coming from Corvara, it was…
This very popular Sella Ronda loop is inspired by the similar ski tour. The 51.1 km loop (we added a back and forth from our hotel) takes you over four mountain passes. The Gardena, Campolongo, Sella and Pordoi.
Ruben and I were really longing for a shorter day of riding, so we could take more time for coffee stops and shooting pictures. That’s how it all went. Okay, it was a bit tough, but as we made stop after stop while taking picture after picture, it felt quite relaxed as well. The only thing was that it appeared we ran a bit late for lunch. So after two climbs and descends, we were really graving for a pizza lunch. As we promised ourselves. It turned out that no restaurant could serve us pizza. Siësta… So, in the end, we had great toasts at our hotel instead, once we got back there.
Passo Gardena, from corvara
I consider this as one of the nicest climbs of the area, as without extremes it goes up with 19 unnumbered hairpin bends. The trees along your way up gradually become scarcer and the panoramas all the more beautiful. Beautiful pass with a nice 360° Dolomites panorama at the top. Coming from Corvara it’s a 8.8 kilometers long climb covering 594 meteres of altitude and an average gradient of 6.7%.
Passo Sella, from plan de gralba
Doing the Sella Rondo, counter clockwise as we did, this pass starts at the three-way intersection in Plan de Gralba. And winds to the top through a long series of gentle curves. Very occasionally a slightly descending part but always between 5-10％ with short peaks. After 4.5 km you might think you’ve reached the top, but that’s the parking of the Sassolungo cable car. The road rises another kilometer further to one of the most beautiful pass heights in the Dolomites. At the top you have this narrow passage, between one souvenir shop and one hotel. Classic mountain top scenery with a magnificent view of the three peaks of the Sassolungo, the Sella massif and the Marmolada glacier. Short 5.3 kilometers climb from this site gaining just 377 metres of elevation with a 7.1% average slope.
Passo Pordoi, from canazei
This might be the slightly lesser-known side of the Pordoi as the way up from Arabba might be the most beautiful one. Nevertheless this is very nice as well. Smooth way up with long stretches of 7-8％ and couple of switchbacks. Big difference with the ascent from Arabba is the forestry during most of the climb, which gives more shade and less view while you’re doing the 11.9 kilometers and gaining the 791 metres of altitude on an average gradient of 6.6%.
Passo campolongo, from arabba
The Passo Campolongo was our last climb on our Sella Rondo. You leave Arabba via 3 short sweet switchbacks and these takes you through the village of Varda. The mid part of the short climb is fairly steep (8-10％) with another 3 switchbacks, becoming a slightly rising wide straight road to the top. At the top you find this plateau with a few hotels. Compared to the Pordoï it’s very quiet and peaceful. Might be because the view isn’t the most spectacular one. Still worth going up the 3.9 kilometers while gaining 284 of altitude on an average ramp of of 7.2%.
Day 5 - passo fedaia
Day five covered just 100 kilometres with 2,800 m elevation gain. This time we did the Sella Ronda loop clockwise but extending it with the Passo Fedaia. That appeared to be savage…
Did anyone of you ever managed to do the Passo Fedaia climb? No, no! Not the smooth one from Canazei! I'm talking about the Fedaia from Caprile! How intense was that! Perhaps because at that certain point we had been riding Dolomites cols for four days in a row. Without holding back. Or this climb is really badass. Anyway, this Fedaia climb really made me squeeze all the air out of my lungs. Just to manage to get to the top.
However, once at the top, the experience was beyond amazing. It served this stunning view on the highest mountain of the Dolomites. The 3,342 metres Marmolada. Covered in snow. Plus, we enjoyed this 5-kilometer plateau stretch riding along the Lago di Fedaia. Last but not least there was this descend to Canazei. All 'galerias' and switchbacks.
Once in Canazei we found this place serving great paninis and espressos. Great to head back to the hotel again. And although we had to conquer the Passo Sella and Passo Gardena again, this time from the other side, after that Fedaia experience, these ones were easy peasy...
Passo campolongo, from corvara
Most “regular” climb in the area from this side I think. It winds up straight from Corvara. Oddly enough, the switchbacks are steeper compared to the rest of the climb. Halfway it serves nothing more than a long spur to the top. Great new tarmac and spacious road for the whole 6 kilometers while gaining 351 metres of elevation on this average slope of 5.9%
Passo fedaia, from caprile
As already mentioned, this side of the Passo Fedaia is just savage! The first part can be considered not too tough. The part which lets you explode starts from Malga Ciapela, where the cable car to the Marmolada departs. Starting with what is described in Giro history books as the "Championship Cemetery". Almost straight 10％-15% ascending road that seems endless. These 4 kilometres psychologically feels like not progressing on the climb at all. Nevertheless, the last kilometers there is a final series of 10 switchbacks as gutters against the mountainside. To alert cyclists with numb legs, there are also two traffic signs that warn you for the stretches with a 15％ gradient. In the end the top is a peaceful relief and if you proceed your way on the plateau you reach the reservoir with a view of the Marmolada glacier. Hardest climb in the area which I’ll remember for the personal struggle with the straight line up from Malga Ciapela! This bad ass climb is 12.8 kilometers long and gains 1,002 of altitude with an average gradient of 7.8%.
Passo Pordoi, from canazei
Same climb as on our ride mentioned at day 4. Although this time we did this climb at its full length coming straight from Canazei. So the full 11.9 kilometers while gaining the 791 metres of altitude with this average gradient of 6.6%.
Passo Gardena, from plan de gralba
Same climb as on our ride mentioned at day 3. Although this time it was shorter and really from Plan de Gralba. So we really just did the 5.7 kilometers while gaining 286 metres of altitude with this average gradient of 4.4%.
Day 6 - furkelpass
Day six covered just 123 kilometers with 3,000 m elevation gain. Pouring rain at an altitude of 2,200 meters was not what we expected.
When we left our hotel it was all sunshine and just a few clouds. So we took off in bibs and jerseys. Ruben brought his rainjacket for descends. I laughed. I just brought a vest and arm warmers. We didn't use any of that on the first climb of the day. On The Furkel Pass, the sun was burning our skins and the effort made us sweat even more. Another break for photos, as we did A LOT these days, appeared to be a great idea to get ourselves up there.
A fast descend got us to Valdaora where we got ourselves our first coffee of the day. We continued our ride at an altitude of 1,000 meters. It was since last week since we had seen grain and cornfields. But from there, it was all up again. A stretch of 40 kilometers on a gentle slope increased until we reached the breathtaking Lago di Landro. It was where we had another coffee stop with a view.
Another fast descend got us down in Cortina d'Ampezzo. As expected, again, no pizza. But, yes, pasta! And it appeared to be a good one to get us up on the last climb of the day. Meanwhile, dark clouds moved over the mountains into the valley. It started to rain a bit as we took off for our 17 km up to the Passo di Falzarego.
Light rain turned into rain, which eventually turned into pouring rain. We both decided to go at our own pace. After an hour we met again at the top. Ruben with his comfortable rainjacket. Me, soaking wet... The last descend back to the hotel was everything but fun. Actually, it was hell. It's was so hard to get down safe. I was shivering from head to toe. It was so cold!
But eventually, we made it back to the hotel where a warm bath was the greatest help to get the blood and energy back flowing. Our last day here in The Dolomites turned out to be the most epic one. No doubt!
furkelpass, from corvara
Pretty much an unknown climb in this area. Probably because it’s a bit north of the populair places to stay. Nevertheless really worth it! Nice views from open green fields. Just a few switchbacks but I rather had more to feel progress instead of these longer straight stretches. Isn’t a hard climb although on our last day it really felt as a struggle nevertheless. However, this 12 kilometers long climb gaines 773 metres of altitude with an average slope of 6.4%.
passo di falzarego, from Cortina d'Ampezzo
Same side of the Passo Valparola as mentioned on day 1. Although this time we really came all the way from Cortina d’Ampezzo from where it twists and turns even longer. So we did the full 15.9 kilometers on this average gradient of 5.8%.
memories
What a trip this was! By far one of the best ones I’ve ever done while riding bikes. This area is heaven. For lots of outdoor fanatics as for us on road bikes. Only thing is traffic which can be quite overwhelming. Busses, cars, motorbikes. But hey, everyone deserves to enjoy this unique scenery, right!?
And for sure it’s going to be very, very, very hard to find a place which can compete or overclass our stay at Hotel Melodia Del Bosco. I’ll write down more about that in a separate blogpost!