The Canary Islands weren't entirely new to me. I'd already ticked off Lanzarote way back in 2005 but on a bike-free holiday. Then came an introduction to Gran Canaria's charms in early 2000. This time I did bring my bike. And now, as of last May, Tenerife can proudly join that illustrious Canarian hit list too. Let's say at least Gran Canaria and Tenerife shares certain volcanic island commonalities. Like diverse microclimatic chaos and endless elevation gains. Because both the climate and the climbing are something that simply refuses to be ignored.

Tenerife isn’t for everyone

Truth be told, Tenerife isn't really a rookie cyclist's paradise. To truly enjoy everything this island has to offer cycling-wise, you should arrive properly fit! Because flats? Flats are about as common here as snowfall in summer. Instead, you've got El Teide standing proud as the literal centerpiece, stretching its volcanic tendrils 3,718 meters into the heavens. That volcano is sort of an ever-present lighthouse calling you inward no matter which road you choose to attack. There’s no way to avoid as her foothills await eager to be conquered from every corner of the island.

All that said, I'm also here to testify that Tenerife has rightfully cemented itself as a full-fledged road cycling heaven worthy of every cyclist's bucket list! And in my trademark long-winded narrative style, you can expect a proper detailed debrief on exactly why that's the case. So, read on!

Checking in at Arona Gran Hotel at the Costa Adeje

Together with mates Ruben Hoogland and Alexandre Gazquez, we went for Arona Gran Hotel as a base camp in Tenerife's sunny southwestern corner. Also the most famous tourist hotspot. The logic behind that is simple. The so-called Costa Adeje is renowned for its abundant sunshine, making it essentially the Maspalomas of Tenerife.

After around 4.5 hours of flight time, we landed at Tenerife Sur Airport. We collected our bike cases from the odd-size luggage carousel, and a super flexible taxi transfer arranged by the hotel whisked us to the Arona Gran's lobby in just 15 minutes flat.

It's immediately evident this place is all about pure relaxation. Despite the hotel being relatively large with 400 rooms, the vibes are incredibly laid back and match the superb professional staff. With a refreshing drink of our favour in hand, we could acclimatize at our own pace while checking in. Every detail was covered. From room locations to finding the bike storage, food options, and most importantly, how to utterly unwind at the pools, the rooftop terrace, and the Thalasso Spa.

cycling friendly hotel

For me, it became swiftly apparent this hotel is well-accustomed to hosting cyclists. They've truly thought of everything for us. Case in point? Simply checking into our rooms revealed complimentary stashes of energy bars and gels waiting. It even turned out there would be a daily restock!

But the pampering didn't stop there. The Arona Gran Hotel houses an impressive bike storage room tailored for properly securing your ride. We're talking individual lock setups to stash your bike with complete peace of mind. And talk about next-level amenities - this bike room comes fully loaded with bike pumps, an extensive tool collection, a maintenance stand, and even a dedicated bike wash area!

The only two things you realistically need to pack are a plentiful supply of cycling kits and your bike itself. Furthermore, the hotel basically anticipated and accounted for every other imaginable need already.

there’s a heaven on earth

And now that I'm primed to wax lyrical about this stellar hotel base, allow me to lavish some praise on the amenities beyond just the top-notch bike hospitality that so impressed us - starting with...

The Food

Look, I'll admit I'm usually a buffet skeptic through and through. But the breakfast and dinner spreads here at Arona Gran Hotel were utterly top-notch. No skimping on quality in the slightest. An amazingly vast selection that rotated daily, making nutritious, healthy fueling very easy. Sure, they served up requisite sugary indulgences too - those desserts alone were utterly finger-licking. But you'd be wise to exercise your portion controls!

The UP! Rooftop Terrace

Crowning this hotel is done with a sprawling roof deck. Complete with not one, but two infinity pools at each sides end. The perfect sun-drenched spot for whiling away hours, savouring snacks both savoury and sweet. And sipping coffee or freshly squeezed juices. A place also set to the million-dollar panorama of El Teide's majestic peak, the sparkling ocean, and even a La Gomera view! The Up! Rooftop Terrace is not a bad place to kick back after riding. Or simply enjoying that rare, lazy restday.

The gym

How many hotels have hyped up "a gym" only to reveal some dingy basement with a lone treadmill collecting dust? There's no deception here though! This facility houses a proper full-scale gym stocked with more equipment than you could possibly sample. Think full weight room, cardio machinery, and even a dedicated space with over a dozen fitness mats. All with a first-row view over the harbour of Los Christianos. The ideal place for my kettlebell swing routine, yoga flows, and post-ride stretches.

The staff

But really, it’s the staff that steals the show here. Genuinely kind souls who’ll make you feel as welcome as family from the moment you arrive. Service from the heart, as it should be.

the beauty of Tenerife

During our weeklong Tenerife escape, we scheduled one complete rest day for recovery, squeezed in one short coffee ride, but otherwise spent 5 full days in the saddle exploring the island as much as we could.

But before diving into these routes, allow me to wax poetic on what makes this volcanic island such a singularly special playground.

This island is utterly overloaded with dramatic, serpentine roads constantly unfurling fresh scenery with every twist. Tenerife's landscapes shapeshift from the sun-drenched southern side to towering sea cliff panoramas up north, all orbiting around that spectacular central tentpole. The Teide, Spain's highest peak you simply cannot escape.

Seriously, that volcano looms everywhere you go. And really, what other destination serves you 40+km climbs launching straight from the coast and rampaging over 2,300 meters skyward? I think that’s utterly unique!

So when it comes to plotting Tenerife's premier road routes, you simply can't avoid El Teide dominating the landscape, demanding any cyclist to make an obligatory pilgrimage to its slopes.

With that preamble out of the way, here are the routes we did…

day 1 - short warm-up, flirting with el teide, and some learnings

On our first day we had a somewhat lazy morning after a far too lavish (yet fantastic) breakfast. But finally fueled, it was time to spin a bit. Some route planning backed up the decision to keep the first ride relatively tame - under 60km but still up a rowdy 1,500m of vertical. Just a little Tenerife tapa to whet the appetite.

Escaping the slightly frenetic buzz of Los Christianos, we promptly found ourselves meandering along idyllic backroads showcasing the island's volcanic southern charms. Glorious car-free roads to ourselves!

Well, those tiny lanes proved delightfully traffic-free, but let me be honest, sometimes punishingly steep too. I'm talking ruthless ramps hitting over 20%. Not quite the warmup gradients I envisioned! We swiftly recalibrated our plans to prioritize more main roads for the days ahead. Eventually, it turned out that the further inland you go, the quieter the roads become.

Halfway through our ride, we stumbled upon an absolute gem for a first coffee stop - the "Mar de Nubes" cafe and Canary Concept Store brimming with local artisanal flair. A really nice place serving good coffee and killer views.

The descent cheekily foreshadowed bigger rides to come as we hit curve after curve on pristine tarmac all the way back to our hotel.

Day 2 - Tenerife in one day, sort off

The night before, we simultaneously agreed on this 175-kilometre (4,500 meters of elevation) ride across the island.

This second day showed us all the charm of Tenerife’s diversity. Known for its microclimates, the island surprises you with sudden temperature shifts and varied landscapes that change dramatically almost after every turn.

We kicked off the ride with friends from Rotterdam, who also appeared to be on the island. They joined us for the first two hours. After an espresso goodbye, riding along the north coast felt distinctly Latin American to me.

The city of La Orotova was a pleasant surprise. A small town with a stately atmosphere where we classically refuelled at a local Mercadona, followed by some speciality coffees at a place called Slow Coffee.

Then came El Teide. Over 45 kilometres, we climbed 2,367 meters from sea level, through misty, Jurassic-Park-like sceneries and above the clouds into sunny forests, culminating in a surreal moonscape. Pretty similar scenic characteristics to the Grand Canyon National Park actually!

The 50-kilometre thrill ride back to the hotel, characterized by smooth tarmac and an almost overwhelming sequence of bends and curves whisked us back to our hotel in nearly an hour.

Despite collectively feeling completely cooked, I can't help but feel this was one of the most magnificent rides of my life. If you’re considering Tenerife, put this ride on your list! But as said, rides like this in a place demand a serious fitness level. Because, no matter your level, expect to be challenged. Yet, the rewards are double worth it.

Day 3 - The Intermezzo Casual 100-kilometre Teide Tapa

After yesterday's ride, we wisely pencilled a seeming "intermezzo" into the script. The 'little' 100-kilometre spin I planned promised the perfect casual Tenerife ride - including, of course, another dance with El Teide.

My day's climactic highlight? The long descent off Teide's plateaus all the way down to the sleepy pueblo of Chío. A lingering, seductive almost straight descent quickly chased by an adrenaline-packed return - tight, winding tarmac showering through banana plantations back down to the coast.

With rubbery legs, we capped the sunlit afternoon in an appropriate fashion. A lazy tapas-style fuel-up commenced on our the Up! rooftop, complete with obligatory refreshing dips in those infinity pools.

Day 4 - Rematch, Correcting Day 1's Missteps

After all the riding so far, spontaneity struck - today we didn't feel like going on another heroic ride that much. So, a variation on that opening day 1 roll felt properly therapeutic. With the crucial route knowledge gained, we strategized correcting every rookie misstep and created a variation on that first day’s ride.

The coastal road encore was a welcome if unspectacular opener. Trading gradients for bits of flats with industrial commotion and busy roads. But patience rewarded as we veered inland toward San Miguel de Abona, the roads steadily shedding their business.

From that town forthwith to Vilaflor, these roads transitioned into a dreamscape. I’m talking pristine tarmac spooling out gorgeous, almost car-free returning bends.

The coup de grace? Reprising that descent's tantalizing flirtation with El Teide's slopes once more, this time wisely bypassing those punishingly steep backroad errors. Well, we tried detouring back through that cafe Mar de Nubes again for another coffee, but it seemed the siesta shut them down that day.

No matter - we simply tapped out early, beelining straight back to that rooftop terrace for more laziness under Tenerife's radiant sun.

Redemption accomplished, amateur transgressions expunged.

Day 5 - Quite a Demanding Coffee Spin

Tenerife's fickle coastal weather conditions appeared absolutely splendid from our hotel - but one glimpse at the inky cloudscape covering El Teide's peaks signalled today's all-in objective a postponement. We just decided not to tangle with the volcanic beast in foul temper.

So instead, a coffee ride was prudently programmed. A relatively tame 35km coastal spin. Don't be fooled though, we still maverick'd our way through over 500 punchy meters of elevation! Enough to get some savour-clear panoramic perspectives over Tenerife's southern shores.

After that ride, with Norio Coffee Shop, we found this utterly charming hideyhole back in Los Cristianos' buzzy hubbub. One sip of her espresso immediately confirmed me - this gem deserves an instant download into my "great caffeinators" mental database.

With tomorrow's big ride ahead, the afternoon remained gloriously obligation-free. Ample sunbathing nourished both body and spirit under that radiant Canary sun, mixed with strategically timed sauna sessions. Let’s call it a perfect all-around preparation for the queen stage ahead.

Day 6 - When El Teide's Fierce Temperament Demands Humble Surrender

This grand finale was meant to unfold rather differently. Despite the warnings and driven by optimism and naivety, we set out for our 171-kilometer loop. The sun initially graced our ride along the stunning coastal route to Güímar.

At a classic bakery stop, our conversations inevitably turned to the looming weather forecast for El Teide. Our descent into Güímar had already given us glimpses of the volcano, ominously wrapped in dense, dark clouds. We checked various weather apps, seeking clarity on what to expect, though the forecasts were far from reassuring.

With a spirit of boldness, we just started our 55-kilometer climb, keeping the backup plan in mind, meaning, turning back if the weather took a turn for the worse.

Twenty kilometers up, the drizzle transformed into steady rain. We paused, checked apps once more, decided to press on anyway, and then found ourselves surrounded by thick fog and fighting intermittent showers. We reached the first plateau of El Teide and went down a 6-kilometer descent to El Portillo.

Arriving drenched and chilled to the bone, unprepared for these conditions, we sought refuge in a bar. We went in to ask for old newspapers to stuff under our jackets but then noticed the crackling fireplace. We decided to warm up with coffee and hot chocolate.

As we considered braving the weather again, stepping outside revealed pouring rain and a biting 3°C displayed on our Wahoos.

Faced with the prospect of a nearly 60-kilometer descent in these treacherous conditions, we opted for safety over valour. It felt too insane to proceed. The bar owner kindly arranged a taxi van back to our hotel for us. It took me some time to come to terms with how our day, and effectively our trip to Tenerife finished. But after all, the taxi was undoubtedly the wisest, if not the only sensible decision...

conclusion

Circling back to where this story started, I can't help but reiterate - Tenerife isn’t for everyone. I just may not represent a great cycling escape for every level of rider. While I wholeheartedly recommend Arona Gran Hotel as a wonderfully cycling-centric hotel, and its bounty of year-round sunshine is merely the icing on an already decadent cake, it would be wise to manage expectations.

The full Tenerife cycling experience, at least the rides revealing this island's most stunningly remote and rewarding pockets? Those require an incredibly deep reserve of fitness level. I’m talking truly long days in the saddle, outright grinding away at a relentless barrage of ascents. But, the more you’re willing to ride and the harder you're willing to work and suffer, the richer your rewards will shine. That’s for sure!

But let me be clear - embrace that physical and mental challenge, and you're in for some epically soul-nourishing riding for sure. Go ride El Teide and go see that landscape and those panoramas! Each ride will test your limits with an experience so vibrant, that you'll wonder why you haven't made this trip to Tenerife sooner!